In the heart of India's dense forests, where the sal and teak trees whisper ancient secrets, the beating of the mandar drum signals a time of divine reunion. This is the Madai festival, a celebration where gods leave their shrines to visit one another, and humans gather to celebrate the harvest, kinship, and the enduring spirit of tribal culture.
Unlike festivals bound to a single day, Madai is a celebration spanning months. From December to March, it moves from village to village across the districts of Bastar, Kanker, Narayanpur, and Dantewada in the state of Chhattisgarh, turning quiet forest hamlets into bustling hubs of colour, faith, and trade.
When Gods Go Visiting
The central theme of Madai is the reunion of the divine. According to Gond folklore, the local village deities are not distant, abstract figures but active members of the community who enjoy social visits just like humans.
The festival is essentially a massive family reunion for the gods, where the presiding deity of the region, often the revered Goddess Danteshwari (an incarnation of Shakti) or Kesharpal Kesharpalin Devi invites the smaller, local deities from surrounding villages to gather.
These deities do not travel in silence. They are carried in palanquins called Anga (a wooden framework often intricately carved) or represented by tall bamboo poles called Dang, wrapped in bright red and yellow cloths and adorned with peacock feathers.
A unique and powerful aspect of the folklore is the belief is that the spirit of the deity physically enters the person carrying the Anga. It is common to see bearers in a trance, dancing erratically to the drumbeats, believed to be the deity expressing joy at meeting their divine kin.
From Sacred Trees to Human Bridges
The festival usually begins in the Bastar region and travels northward, with rituals that are a profound blend of animism and goddess worship. The festivities kick off in an open field, known as the Madai ground, often near a river. Here, a sacred tree is worshipped, and a goat is frequently sacrificed to appease the forest spirits and ensure a prosperous year ahead.
The highlight of the religious ceremonies is the procession of the deities. Villagers carry their Anga and Dang in a chaotic, energetic parade, circling the sacred ground and creating a kaleidoscope of swaying bamboo poles and feathers.
Perhaps the most startling ritual is the Human Bridge of Dhamtari, observed in a variation of the festival. Married women who wish for children lie face-down in a row, and the priests and witch doctors (Baigas) walk over their backs to enter the temple, a practice believed to bless the women with fertility.
The Colors of the Forest
If you visit Madai, the first thing that strikes you is the visual spectacle, as the tribal attire is not just clothing but a vibrant identity. The Bison Horn Maria tribe is famous for their spectacular dance attire, where men wear heavy headgear made from the horns of wild bison, adorned with cowrie shells and peacock feathers.
A veil of cowries often covers their face, adding an aura of mystery to their movements. The women complement this with their dress, wearing bright, knee length sarees (often red or yellow) in the distinct tribal style.
They are heavily adorned with jewelry, including thick silver neckbands called Suta, coin necklaces, and armlets. Tattoos are also a significant part of their spiritual protection and beauty, with geometric patterns often covering their arms and legs.
A Taste of the Wild
The cuisine at the Madai festival is a direct celebration of the forest's bounty, and relying heavily on foraging and hunting. The most famous and adventurous dish is likely Chapda (Red Ant Chutney).
Red ants and their eggs are collected from sal trees, crushed, and mixed with salt, chilies, and ginger. It is intensely sharp and sour, and the locals believe it helps keep diseases away.
Beyond this unique delicacy, no tribal celebration is complete without Mahua, a potent liquor brewed from the fermented flowers of the Mahua tree, which serves as a sacred offering to the gods and a social lubricant.
Landa, a rice beer, provides a staple energy source for the long days of dancing. Hunters often bring game meat, or chickens and goats are sacrificed and prepared as a Tribal Roast over open fires with minimal spices, allowing the smoky flavour to dominate.
The Cheul
Beyond the religion, Madai is a crucial economic lifeline. The festival ground transforms into a massive fair, or Mela, often referred to as a Cheul. For many remote villagers, this is the only time of the year they come down from the hills to buy essential goods like salt, oil, spices, and clothes.
While commerce is vital, entertainment is equally important. Cockfighting is a popular sport at the festival, where heavy betting takes place, drawing huge crowds of cheering men. But the true heartbeat of Madai is the relentless dancing.
Men and women perform the Karma and Relo dances, linking arms in long chains or circles. The drumming is hypnotic and continues all night until sunrise. This dance is also a form of social engagement and courtship, where young people from different villages meet, often leading to marriages arranged during the festival.
Conclusion
The Madai festival is more than a festival. It remains a sanctuary where the Gond people can assert their identity, honour their ancestors, and teach their children that the forest, the gods, and the community are one and the same.