Impressions and Flavors of Calcutta during Mahalaya

The dark fortnight of Ashwin (September-October) is known as Pitru Paksha, which is especially sacred for offering oblations to the deceased ancestors. Pitru Paksha festival is celebrated for 16 days. The last day of this period, the dark moon day, called Mahalaya Amavasya, is considered the most important day of the year for the performance of obsequies and rites.

At dusk, some people pray to the goddess Durga to drive away demons, while others take a holy bath in the Ganga River to pray for the deceased.

According to tradition, the souls of three previous generations of one's ancestors reside, waiting to reach heaven, in the ancestral world called Pitruloka, a realm located between heaven and earth ruled by Yama, the god of death.

These souls, at the time of the year when the Sun enters the zodiac sign of Virgo, temporarily leave Pitruloka to join the homes of their descendants, until the Sun enters the zodiac sign of Scorpio and the full moon appears.

Families perform rituals known as Shraddha, which include prayers at the ghats of sacred rivers like the Ganges, where they make offerings of rice, lentils, water, biscuits, and sesame seeds. Fulfilling this filial duty is believed to bring prosperity and blessings.

The rituals take place at sunset near rivers or streams and are often preceded by fasting and purification rites. It is believed that if the food offered is eaten by crows, considered messengers between the two worlds, the ancestors have accepted the gift.

Mahalaya also holds ancestral importance, as many people offer Tarpan or pind daan on riverbanks to honor their departed ancestors. The atmosphere becomes festive with preparations for Durga Puja starting in full swing, especially in regions known for their grand Durga Puja celebrations.

Each day of Pitru Paksha is dedicated to different types of deceased, with the exception of the new moon day called Sarvapitri Amavasya, which is intended for all ancestors regardless of the lunar day of death.

The reason why food offerings are so important to ancestors is explained in the Mahabharata, where it is said that King Karna reached heaven after death, only to find himself surrounded by gods who offered him only food made of gold, which he could not swallow.

Karna had been very generous in life and would give gold to anyone who asked for help, but he had forgotten his ancestors, to whom he had never given offerings of food and water. This is why he found himself hungry and thirsty in paradise.

However, the gods, taking pity on him, allowed him to return to earth to right his wrong, and from then on he reaches the world of the living during the two weeks of Pitru Paksha.

Mahalaya is the the day when goddess Durga, accompanied by her retinue of four children, is believed to have left her abode in the Himalayas for a journey to the home of her mother in Bengal. Mahalaya is the day of invoking the mother goddess.

Since the early 1930s, Mahalaya has come to associate itself with an early morning radio program called Mahisasura Mardini or The Annihilation of the Demon. This All India Radio program is a beautiful audio montage of recitation from the scriptural verses of Chandi Kavya, Bengali devotional songs, classical music and a dash of acoustic melodrama. The program has also been translated into Hindi set to similar orchestration and is broadcast at the same time for a pan-Indian audience.

On this day, people in Bengal and other parts of eastern India rise early to listen to the recitation of the Mahishasura Mardini, which narrates the story of Goddess Durga's victory over the buffalo demon Mahishasura.

This program has almost become synonymous with Mahalaya. For nearly six decades now, the whole of Bengal rises up in the pre-dawn hours, 4 am to be precise, of the Mahalaya day to tune in to the “Mahisasura Mardini” broadcast. One man who'll always be remembered for making Mahalaya memorable to one and all is Birendra Krishna Bhadra, the magical voice behind the Mahisasura Mardini.

The legendary narrator recites the holy verses and tells the story of the descent of Durga to earth, in his inimitable style. There is a story that once the legendary Bengali actor, Mahanayak Uttam Kumar recited Mahisasura Mardini only to end up disappointing the Bengali crowd, who wanted the one and only Bhadra's voice.

The fact that original Bhadra's narration quickly replaced the Uttam Kumar's chants is quite understandable, considering Bengalis' firmness about their demands even till this day.

Bhadra has long passed away, but his recorded voice still forms the core of the Mahalaya program. In a sonorous, reverberating voice Birendra Bhadra renders the Mahalaya recital for two thrilling hours, mesmerizing every household with the divine aura of his narration, as the Bengalis submerge their souls in quiet moments of prayer.

Mahisasura Mardini is a remarkable piece of audio drama matchless in Indian culture. Though the theme is mythical and the mantras Vedic, this program is a landmark composition. It's scripted by Bani Kumar, and narrated by Bhadra. The enchanting music is composed by none other than the immortal Pankaj Mullick, and the songs are rendered by famous singers of yesteryears, including Hemant Kumar and Arati Mukherjee.

As the recital begins, the serene morning air resonates with the long drawn sound of the sacred conch shell, immediately followed by a chorus of invocation, melodiously setting the stage for the recitation of the Chandi Mantra.

The story element is captivating. It speaks of the increasing cruelty of the demon king Mahisasura against the gods. Unable to tolerate his tyranny the gods plead with Vishnu to annihilate the demon. The Trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Maheswara (Shiva) come together to create a powerful female form with ten arms - Goddess Durga or 'Mahamaya', the Mother of the Universe who embodies the primeval source of all power.

The gods then bestow upon this Supreme creation their individual blessings and weapons. Armed like a warrior, the goddess rides a lion to battle with the Mahisasura. After a fierce combat the 'Durgatinashini' is able to slay the 'Asura' king with her trident. Heaven and earth rejoice at her victory. Finally, the mantra narration ends with the refrain of mankind's supplication before this Supreme Power:

"Ya devi sarbabhuteshshu, sakti rupena sanksthita Namasteshwai Namasteshwai Namasteshwai namo namaha."

From today, the sculptures would be displayed in public in pandals. It's the day when the sculptors draw eyes of Durga Ma, breathing life into the sculpture, as it's believed that eyes of the moorti signify life. The sculptures are taken to the pandals and are open for public display. In Kolkata, the area Kumartuli is famous for being home to numerous artisans and potters, who spend months to prepare the majestic idols.

Mahalaya marks the poignant remembrance and celebration, marking the transition from Pitru Paksha to Devi Paksha. Especially in Bengali culture, Mahalaya is deeply personal and emotional, filled with nostalgia and anticipation. From waking up before dawn to listen to Mahishasura Mardini on the radio, with the sound of Birendra Krishna Bhadra evoking a warm embrace as we honour our ancestors while welcoming the arrival of Goddess Durga and the start of Durga Puja.

Mahalaya serves as a reminder of those we’ve lost, blending joy and sorrow, celebrating life while remembering those who shaped it. More than just a day, Mahalaya is an emotional journey that connects us with our past and prepares us for the future.