In the misty hills of Manipur, Assam, and Nagaland, when the winter winds sweep through the harvested fields and the granaries are full, the Zeliangrong community prepares for their most spectacular celebration: Gaan-Ngai.
Known as the Festival of Light, Gaan-Ngai is not merely a post-harvest party. It is a profound cultural phenomenon that weaves together the realms of the living, the dead, and the divine. Celebrated for five to seven days starting on the 13th day of the Manipuri month of Wakching (usually December or January), it marks the end of the year and the heralding of the new, bringing the Zeme, Liangmei, and Rongmei tribes together in a vibrant display of unity and identity.
The Myth: Bees, Gods, and the Gift of Fire
To understand Gaan-Ngai, one must first look to the heavens. According to Zeliangrong folklore, in the dawn of time, gods and humans lived together in a common dormitory known as a Khangchu, presided over by the benevolent patriarch Tingpurengsonnang. However, this co-existence was fraught with tension. The gods, being powerful, often oppressed the humans.
In a clever twist of fate, men turned into Khodiai (bees) and stung the gods, causing them to flee. But in the chaos, humanity lost the secret of fire. Life became cold and dark until, after fervent prayers to the Supreme God Tingkao Ragwang, they saw smoke rising from an earthen pot where a fire burned. This rediscovery of fire changed human destiny, allowing them to cook rice and survive.
Gaan-Ngai commemorates this "Coming of Light" and the gift of fire, celebrating the victory of light over darkness and life over death.
The Rituals: From Holy Shouts to Sacred Fire
The festival kicks off with a series of powerful rituals that ground the community in its spiritual heritage.
1. Mairapmei (Extraction of Sacred Fire)
The most iconic moment of the festival is Mairapmei. On the first day, the village elders kindle a "New Fire" not with matches, but by the friction of wood and bamboo. This pure, sacred fire is then distributed to every household in the village. Families extinguish their old hearth fires and light new ones, symbolizing a fresh start, purification, and the dispelling of the past year's misfortunes.
2. Hoigammei (The Procession)
The air fills with the electric sound of the Hoigammei procession. Men, dressed in their finest warrior attire, march through the village shouting "Hoi! Hoi!" This guttural invocation is believed to ward off evil spirits and purify the village atmosphere, creating a protective shield around the community for the festivities to follow.
3. Gakpai Jaomei (Reading the Omen)
The future is read in the entrails of a pig. In a ritual known as Gakpai Jaomei, elders examine the spleen of a sacrificed pig. The shape and condition of the spleen are interpreted as omens, predicting the village's fortunes, health, and harvest prosperity for the coming year.
Honoring the Departed
Uniquely, Gaan-Ngai is a festival that refuses to forget the dead. It is believed that the souls of those who died during the previous year linger in the village until the festival concludes. Families offer Thei Napdom (packets of food) and drinks to the graves of their loved ones, decorating them with flowers. It is a touching farewell, a final act of love before the spirits depart for Taroilam (the land of the dead), ensuring their journey is peaceful.
A Culinary Odyssey: The Taste of Gaan-Ngai
No Zeliangrong celebration is complete without a feast, and Gaan-Ngai offers a spread that delights the senses.
Zou (Rice Beer): The heartbeat of the festival. Zoungao (rice beer) and the potent distilled Zouju flow freely, essential for both libations to the gods and merrymaking among friends.
Gakting Tam: A delicacy of minced pork, pounded with aromatic local herbs, ginger, and chillies, formed into savory balls and boiled.
Liangchipuang Tian: A sacred steamed bread made from white rice flour. Its pure white color symbolizes sanctity and is often associated with purity in marriage rituals, but it is also a staple of the festival.
Ganang Tamdui: A distinct, fermented mustard leaf liquid that adds a sharp, savory kick to curries and stews, a flavor that defines the Zeliangrong palate.
Weaving Identity: The Costumes
The visual splendor of Gaan-Ngai lies in its textiles. The Zeliangrong are master weavers, and the festival is their runway.
For the Men: Young men don the Phephai, a striking white shawl with broad red and black borders, symbolizing vigor and protection. The Tashini is a black loincloth decorated with rows of white cowrie shells, clinking rhythmically as they dance. On their heads, they often wear the Pikhim, a headgear made of bamboo and cane, adorned with flowers and hornbill feathers.
For the Women: Women wear the Feisoi (or Phanek), a wraparound skirt that tells a story through its patterns. Dancers often wear the Langmu Feisoi, while the Langjin Feisoi is worn for social grace. Their upper bodies are draped in the Banphei Bangmei, a shawl of exquisite weave. They are adorned with Tatta and Taluwang (heavy brass bangles) and Tatiu (necklaces of conch shells and beads), transforming them into moving works of art during the Tamchan Laam and Tuna Gaan Laam dances.
Conclusion
Gaan-Ngai is more than a date on a calendar; it is the soul of the Zeliangrong people. It is a time when the gap between the human and the divine narrows, when the warmth of the sacred fire thaws the winter chill, and when the community stands as one—honoring their past while fearlessly shouting "Hoi!" to welcome the future.
